Budapest walk idle, muted.
Budapest is two cities that agreed to share a river. Pest is flat, gridded and busy at ground level, all grand nineteenth-century frontage with a bar or a bookshop cut into it; Buda climbs immediately and goes quiet within one block of the bridge. Crossing between them on foot takes about ten minutes and changes everything: the noise, the gradient, the age of the buildings. These walks stay on the pavement for that crossing rather than skipping it, which is the part a map cannot tell you.