Rome walk idle, muted.
Rome does not separate its ruins from its errands. A column that predates most of Europe stands at the edge of a car park; a street of scooters and coffee bars opens onto something two thousand years older without any transition at all. Walking is the only way that stops being remarkable and starts being normal. These walks keep to the centro storico and to pavement level, so the city arrives in the order a person on foot meets it, rather than in the order a guidebook would put it.